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COVID-19 "Lock Down" Project - 1981 Seiko 7009-8210 Restoration (Part 10)

  • by Darren Thomson
  • 04 May, 2020

Part Ten - Dial & hands

Exciting day.. Today we get to make this little Seiko look like a watch again by installing the new dial and hands. As mentioned previously, when restoring a watch, I would normally try to stick with the original parts but, in this case, the dial and hands were both too far gone to be acceptable.

Instead, I've found some original Seiko parts to use instead. They are not new but in good shape and in keeping with the watch that we are restoring back to health.

First job is to replace the dial holding ring that fell to pieces when I took the watch apart.. Turns out, with a couple little modifications (conducted with a pen knife - whatever works!), dial holders from later Seiko models work fine here..
This black dial ring seen above will keep the dial at a correct distance away from the movement and, in particular, the calendar rings.

Now, on goes the dial..
We need to ensure that the dial sits nicely on the dial ring and that the calendar rings function once the dial is on. In the case of this job, I've had the dial off 3 or 4 times in oder to make adjustments and get everything working correctly.
Next we can install the hands. Something to remember here is to move the watch's mechanism forward until the date is about to change and THEN install the hands (so that the date ticks over at midnight).

With the dial and hands installed, all that is left to do at this stage of the build is to wind the watch up and test it..
Thankfully, everything is still working.. I think this is looking pretty good. I'll now let the watch run for 24 hours to make sure that everything is good and it's keeping good time. A common fault to look out for here is the newly installed hands touching one another or the dial. This will stop the watch.

Installing the new watch glass next.. See you soon..
by Darren Thomson 15 June 2020
As can be seen here, this old watch's case has seen better days. On the upside, it is made of solid Sterling silver and experience tells me that I might be surprised at how nice I can get this looking with a little time on the polishing machine.

... And, sure enough, 20 minutes of careful polishing accomplished this..
by Darren Thomson 8 June 2020
After some serious rooting about in my various parts drawers.. I found a bag..
by Darren Thomson 4 June 2020
We are almost ready to put the dial and hands onto the pocket watch but before that can happen we need to clean the dial and install the "Motion Works". 

Examining the back of the dial reminds us, once again, of the general quality of components used here.
by Darren Thomson 1 June 2020
All of the major functioning parts of this pocket watch's movement are now in place and functional. It's time to see if the old girl has life in her. The project pretty much ends here if there is a major issue with the balance or the mainspring (still un-inspected internally for reasons stated back in part 3). There is almost no chance of finding replacement parts for this piece so it could get consigned back to the spares drawer if this doesn't go well..

A careful wind of the mainspring (feels solid and free-moving - click is working well). And....
by Darren Thomson 28 May 2020
With the train of wheels now installed and working, we can turn our attention to the Pallet Fork and its bridge and screws. Here they are..
by Darren Thomson 24 May 2020
For me, this is the most interesting part of the build, certainly from a mechanical perspective. This is where we get to see how the power delivered from the mainspring travels through a train of wheels to deliver suitable energy to the balance.

Here are the components at play for this stage..
by Darren Thomson 23 May 2020
With the barrel and winding system now in place, we would normally secure them with a bridge. In this case, though, it looks like the main bridge has to go on after the rest of the gear train is assembled. So, for now will just make sure that the centre wheel is properly secured into the bridge and test fit the whole thing.

Having inspected the main bridge and centre wheel.. I've found out where that little pinion gear referenced in part 3 lives..
by Darren Thomson 20 May 2020
Now that we have everything clean and checked over, its time to starting putting the 130 year-old movement back together again. Honestly, anything could happen here and, on a job like this one, I won't even bother to start thinking about the watches' case, dial and so on until I know that I can get the movement ticking again. The good news is, it wont take long. An old pocket watch like this is quite a simple mechanism in comparison to modern wrist watches. For one thing, we have less parts to worry about (no calendar, no "keyless works", no automatic winding mechanism...).

We'll start, as with most watches, with the barrel which houses the mainspring and the associated "click" mechanism (the ratchet that stops the barrel and mainspring from un-winding under tension and the thing that you hear when you wind a watch). Here are the components for this part of the build..
by Darren Thomson 18 May 2020
One benefit of buying a "bag of bits" is that I can skip the initial strip down of the watch. Of course, the downside here is that I really don't know if anything is missing or broken. So, the first thing to do is clean everything up and get 100 years worth of grime off of the components and then inspect everything carefully.. In particular the hairspring, gear teeth, mainspring & jewel settings..

The hairspring is by far the most sensitive watch part. This one looks very dirty but it has a good spiral shape to it, with no parts of that spiral touching other parts of it (which is a common cause of "fast running"). The Waltham spring also has a "Breguet Overcoil" design. This is a specific hairspring design invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet (important watch dude) waaaaay back in the 1700's and, essentially, allows for better performance of the hairspring through varying mainspring tensions (watches tend to slow down as a mainspring loses power and go faster when it is fully wound).

I'm going to clean this movement using my ultra-sonic cleaner and, to do that, I like to mount the balance and hairspring in the main plate to keep it safe during cleaning..
by Darren Thomson 15 May 2020
Well, my last little side-project got completed and we are still in "semi" lockdown in the UK so I thought i'd turn my attention to something else that I've been meaning to get to in the workshop.

As a watchmaker, one thing that you will certainly accumulate in time is PARTS. They come from watches that never got repaired, over-ordering when you only need one of something and a seller will only sell you 10 and, frankly.....Well, I don't know where many of them come from... but come they do. Here's a sneaky peak at ONE of my many "parts drawers".. 
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